Saturday, December 29, 2012

How I Do My Makeup: Modified Smokey Eye

Some people say I wear too much makeup. Guess who doesn't care. It makes me feel good, and that's what matters to me on a daily basis :)

First: I start with a clean naked face.
The "before" picture. No edits here. 
Next, I use a brush to apply liquid foundation in a thin layer over my entire face. Let me say it again: use a brush! This makes it possible to apply a thinner layer, thus looking more natural.  I only use concealer if there's something especially noticeable that needs to be fixed like a blemish. 

Next I use a bronzer to accentuate my cheekbones. I like to create the illusion of a shadow. I use a large brush to apply the bronzer just beneath my natural cheekbones to make them appear to sink in deeper. 

Basically any bronzer will work. Notice how it is beneath my actual cheekbone to create a sculpted look.
Then I apply a light, translucent powder over my entire face to keep the base from staying wet or shiny looking. I like a very matte look for my skin. Once again, it's more natural.

After I apply the powder I do two things that I went for years without doing, and I honestly don't know how!
 
First: my eyebrows. I have a wonderful eyebrow kit from Benefit that cost about $30. If you aren't ready to spend that much on your precious brows just yet, you can achieve a similar look using an eyebrow pencil in combination with some dark brown shadow. (pencil first, then shadow) But please, I beg you, do your eyebrows! Nothing looks worse than great makeup with ugly brows. 
My eyebrow kit. The left is wax which I use first with the angled brush.
Then I use the powder on the right.

This is how much much better my eyebrows look after filling them in. I can't stand the sight of them otherwise!
The next thing I use is eyeshadow base. It is also called "primer"  Once again, I don't know how I ever went without. Eyeshadow base keeps your shadow in one place without creasing, and makes it easier to blend. it is an absolute MUST in my book. 
I use MAC's Paint Pot in Soft Ochre as a base. It's $18.50 but worth it.
I've had mine for more than 2 years now and I use it daily!
I apply the eyeshadow base with my finger from my lower lid all the way to my eyebrow. Then just below the arch of my eyebrow I add white shadow to highlight the brow bone. 


With white shadow to highlight.
I use Maybelline "Shimmer"
Just beneath the white shadow I use a matte nude color. I usually put it on the lower lid too, but it doesn't look much different than without. The purpose is to have powder to blend with other colors I use, and to keep a very matte look. The nude color I use is Maybelline "Champagne Fizz" and it says "Matte" on the package. 

After I adding the nude to the lower brow bone and the lowest part of my lid I add a more shiny champagne color to the inner corner of my eye and up towards the brow to about 1/4 of the way across my lid. I do this to accentuate the shape of my eye and to blend with the dark colors. Any lighter color will do, and I experiment with using color on this particular part of the eye a lot. For this look I used CoverGirl's #750 Mink. 

These are well loved. I use them every day! On the right is Covergirl #750 Mink
Now is the fun part! Get out your brushes :) You'll need one large crease brush and one large shadow brush. I use Sonia Kashuk brushes. They are a nice middle ground from the cheapest you can find (which are likely to irritate your eye with stiff bristles) and the most expensive you can get (which are, well, expensive) These brushes you can either get at Target, or here
This is the crease brush. Nice and fat. Comes to a handy dandy point.

This is the "large eyeshadow brush" I like that it's a little bit bulky,
 but also has a flat edge. 

Using the crease brush I apply black shadow starting at the outside corner and moving up and into the crease of the lid and lifting the brush as I get to the center. I repeat this several times. If you are trying to find the shape of your eye, practice with a medium brown and then go over it with black once you find the right spot. Note: it's higher than you think! 

After adding the black. 
I use Mac's black shadow because it lasts forever, but once again any black will work. It's best to start with a light touch because you can always add more. I like to make it extra dark near the corner of my eye. 

Tip: to keep from getting loose black shadow on the rest of your face use your free hand to hold a square of toilet paper or tissue underneath your eye. This will catch any loose shadow and save cleanup. If you do get loose black shadow on your face do not try to wipe it away with your fingers! Use a large brush to sweep it away gently. 

Next I use the large shadow brush to add more black just beneath my eye. It's ok to make it a little messy. 
This is why the flat edge of the large shadow brush is great!
Now all that's left is touching it up and adding lots of black mascara! If you like, you can add eyeliner, but I don't usually. This is mostly because the lid of my eye is pretty small. (which is also why I use a light color on the lid-so you can tell I have them)

All done! This is basically my "go-to" makeup look. Takes me about 10 minutes from start to finish.

 If you do choose to add color, I like to do it as a highlight just under the crease or in the very corner of the eye. And don't worry if you make mistakes. It's ok for this makeup to look a little bit smudgey. It is a smokey eye after all.

So that's it! Next is getting dressed :)




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